My Process of Creating a Portrait from a Photo

Introduction

Sketching a portrait from a photo isn’t just about getting the features right — it’s about capturing the essence of the person. For me, the process is as much about connection as it is about technique. When I sketched Vishal’s portrait, I wasn’t aiming for perfection. I wanted to reflect him as he is — every wrinkle, every shadow, every imperfection that tells a story. Here’s my step-by-step process of how I create a portrait from a photo, staying true to both the subject and the art.

Materials

Here’s what I used for this portrait:

• Sketchbook – A textured sketchbook works best for charcoal because it holds the pigment well and allows for blending.

  
  

• Charcoal – I used both compressed and willow charcoal to create depth and detail.

  
  

• Scale Tool – Essential for measuring and maintaining correct proportions.

  
  

• Eraser – I used a combination of a normal eraser for larger areas and a precise eraser for finer details and highlights.

• Soft Brush – For blending and softening the shadows without losing detail.

My Process

1. Create the Base Rectangle :

   I start by drawing a large rectangle that includes the entire length from the top of the hair to the chin, and the width from ear to ear. This creates a clear boundary for the face and helps me stay within proportion.

   
   

2. Define the Face Area :

   Inside the larger rectangle, I create a smaller rectangle. The length is measured from the hairline (where the forehead begins) to the chin, and the width stops just before the ears. This step defines the face’s framework.

   
   

3. Mark the Eyebrows and Hairline :

   I find the highest point of both eyebrows and measure the distance to the lowest point at the hairline. This helps establish the vertical alignment and symmetry of the face.

   
   

4. Map Out the Eye Sockets :

   Next, I measure the size of the eye sockets and the distance between them. I lightly mark these on the canvas, then figure out the angle of the axis across the eye sockets and mark that as well. This sets the foundation for eye placement.

   
   

5. Place the Nose and Lips :

   From the eye line, I measure the distance to the tip of the nose. I also check the axis of the nose to make sure the tilt is correct. I repeat the process for the lips — measuring the length and checking the angle to ensure they align naturally with the other features.

   
   

6. Sketch the Shape of the Face and Shadows :

   Once the main facial features are in place, I sketch the outline of the face — focusing on the chin, jawline, and overall shape. I then map out the areas of darkest shadow to start building depth.

   
   

7. Check Proportions Constantly :

   At every stage, I take a reference point — like the eye socket, nose length, or mouth width — and use it to check the proportions of the other parts of the face. If something feels off, I adjust it before moving forward.

   
   

8. Blend and Build Depth :

   After the basic outline and shadows are done, I use a soft brush to blend the charcoal. This step softens harsh lines and creates a more natural look.

   
   

9. Subtract Values and Refine :

   Next, I refine the values using compressed charcoal, willow charcoal, and the eraser. If an area is too dark, I lift some of the charcoal with the eraser to create highlights and adjust the balance of light and shadow.

   
   

10. Focus on the Details :

    Once the main structure is in place, I shift my focus to details — the shape of the eyelids, the curve of the lips, the texture of the hair. I constantly check the angles and shapes, especially if the face isn’t directly facing forward.

    
    

11. Final Highlights :

    Finally, I use white charcoal to add highlights to the eyes, nose, and lips based on the brightest areas in the photo. This creates contrast and makes the portrait feel more alive.

    
    
    
    

Learnings

• Proportions First – Getting the overall structure right from the start makes everything else easier.

  
  

• Angles Matter – A small shift in the axis of the eyes or nose can completely change the expression.

  
  

• Shadows Build the Mood – Focus on how light and shadow interact — it gives the portrait depth and life.

  
  

• Let Go of Perfection – The goal isn’t to make it look perfect — it’s to make it feel real.

  
  

• Don’t trust your perception of measurement – It’s easy to think something looks right when it’s actually off. Measure the proportions at every step to stay accurate.

  
  

• Blur some outer edges – This helps create depth and makes the portrait feel more natural rather than overly sharp.

  
  

• Shadows and values create form – Pay attention to how light and dark values work together to create the structure of the face.

This process has helped me simplify portrait drawing without attaching my emotions to the outcome and objectively observing , correcting and repeating my painting process. It’s not about erasing the imperfections — it’s about accepting them. That’s what makes a portrait feel alive.